Kentucky Agate

Written By: Amanda Melton

11/09/11 – 11/17/11

This pattern idea (and a few others) came to me as I was reading children’s books to my daughter one day.  I had seen a beautiful two-toned, ruffled, layered cowl and already wanted to recreate it.  Since I like to have matching hats and scarves, I started thinking of how to ruffle a hat and what colors I might make it.  Agate is the state rock of Kentucky, and painted by a local artist on the side of a building for our county’s bicentennial celebration is a large Agate geode.  These geodes are unassuming on the outside, appearing like an average spherical rock.  On the inside, however, there are dazzling colors of banded minerals in various color combinations.  The combination I have chosen for this particular hat is yellow and red.  If you need inspiration for your own hat, you can search for images of Kentucky Agate, Agate Geode, or visit the following website: http://www.uky.edu/KGS/rocksmn/kentuckyagate.htm

My Inspiration

Yarn Red Heart Super Saver -          Café (body of hat) -          Claret (ruffle) -          Gold (trim)

Hooks -          I/9 – 5.50mm (body of hat) -          K/10 ½ - 6.50mm (ruffle/trim)

Stitches

-          Chain (ch)

-          Slip stitch (ss)

-          Single crochet (sc)

-          Double crochet (dc)

-          Treble crochet (tc)

-          Front Post (fp)

-          Front Post Treble/Double/Half Double Crochet (fptc, fpdc, fphdc)

Instructions

*All rows after the beginning chain and Row 1 of the Body of Hat will be worked in BACK LOOP ONLY.  This will create a circular rib around the hat on each row.  This is where you will eventually create the ruffles!  Row 14 is through both top loops.

Body of Hat Café I/9 – 5.50mm
Begin	Ch 4, join with ss to first ch to form ring
Row 1 12dc	Ch 3, 11dc in ring
Row 2 24dc	Ch 3, dc in same, 2dc in each stitch around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 3 36dc	Ch 3, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next, 2dc in next;  repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 4 48dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 5 60dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 6 72dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 4, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 7 72dc	Ch 2, dc in same and each stitch around, ss to top of first dc *This will close the slight gap you get from doing ch 3, dc in first st; however, it also causes the back “seam” to migrate toward the right ½ stitch per row
Row 8-12 72dc	Repeat Row 7
Row 13 72sc	Ch 1, sc in back loop of same and back loop of each dc around
Row 14 72sc	Ch 1, sc in both top loops same and each sc around
Ruffles Claret K/10 ½ –  6.5mm
Begin	From inside hat: Insert I hook in top of 1st dc of Row 1, pull loop of Claret yarn through, ss, push loop through to front of hat *All Claret yarn should be on outside of hat
Ruffles	Insert K hook in loop of Claret *Ruffles will only be worked on odd rows.
Row 1	Ch 3, 6tc in next 2 loops, 6dc in next loop, 6hdc in next loop, 6dc in next loop You should now have 2 loops between your last 6dc and your first 6tc.  We are going to transition to Row 3 now in a spiral. YO twice, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 2, YO and complete first tc.  Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fptc Repeat 6fptc around last dc in Row 3
Row 3	6dc in first loop, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 3.  Transition to Row 5 in a spiral. YO twice, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 4, YO and complete first tc.  Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fptc. Repeat 6fptc around last dc in Row 5
Row 5	6dc in first loop, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 5.  Transition to Row 7 in a spiral. YO, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 6, YO and complete first dc.  Keep dc as close to bottom of Row 6 dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fpdc. YO twice, insert hook behind last dc in Row 7, YO and complete first tc.  Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fptc.
Row 7	6tc in first loop, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 7.  Transition to Row 9 in a spiral. YO twice, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 8, YO and complete first tc. Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible. Repeat 5x for 6fptc. YO, insert hook behind last dc in Row 9, YO and complete first dc.  Keep dc as close to bottom of Row 9 dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fpdc.
Row 9	6hdc on first loop, 6dc in next;  *6tc in next, 6tc in next, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and the first dc of Row 9.  Transition to Row 11 in a spiral. YO, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 10, YO and complete first hdc.  Keep hdc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fphdc. YO, insert hook behind last dc in Row 11, YO and complete first dc.  Keep dc as close to bottom of Row 11 as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fpdc.
Row 11	6tc in first loop, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 3 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 11.  6tc in next, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, ss to beginning dc of Row 11.
Trim Gold K/10 ½ –  6.5mm
	Ss Gold to top of last hdc in Row 11, ch 1, sc in same and each following stitch around to the fp stitches of Row 11.  Sc in each front post stitch of Row 11 & Row 9, sc in last tc of Row 7, sc in each stitch of Row 7 (working in same direction as Row 11) around to fp stitches.  Sc in each fp stitch of Row 7 & Row 5, turn hat, sc in first dc of Row 3, sc in each stitch of Row 3 (working in opposite direction as Row 11 & 7) around to fp stitches.  Sc in each fp stitch of Row 3 & Row 1.  Ss to Row 1 of base hat.
NOTE	It takes between 35 minutes and 1 hour to complete one round of ruffles on the larger rows (7, 9, 11).  Do not expect to make this hat in one sitting (you may develop a twitchy eye as a result; I speak from experience!), it is a little overwhelming doing so many ruffles. If you do not want to take the time to do the ruffles, you may simply complete the pattern of 12tc, 6dc, 6hdc, 6dc (or 6tc, 3dc, 3hdc, 3dc; or 2tc, dc, hdc, dc) in a spiral around the hat in ODD rows only.  The Claret will still have a wave appearance due to the varying heights of the stitches, but it will take considerably less time (and yarn!) to complete than doing the wavy Ruffle. A third ruffle option would be to ruffle every 3rd row starting with Row 2 (2, 5, 8, 11).  In this case you would front post stitch spiral in the second to last stitches of Rows 3, 6, 9; next to last stitches of 4, 7, 10; last stitch of 5, 8, 11; and begin your next set of stitches in the first front loop of Rows 5, 8, & 11.

Little Emmy Curlylocks

By: Amanda Melton

11-14-11

This hat is a tribute to the corkscrew curls that are my daughter’s hair.  I thought it would be cute to have a hat that mimicked what God gave her.  This hat is also going to be the base for another hat I am working on.  The curls are created from a long chain that has been single crocheted along the bottom loops – the yarn curls naturally as a result.

Stitches & Abbreviations Used

-          Chain (ch)

-          Single Crochet (sc)

-          Double Crochet (dc)

Hook, Yarn, & Gauge

-          I/9 – 5.5mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver

-     6dc over 4 rows is approximately 2” square

Instructions

Begin	Ch 4, join with ss to first ch to form ring
Row 1 12dc	Ch 3, 11dc in ring
Row 2 24dc	Ch 2, 2dc in same, 2dc in each stitch around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 3 36dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next, 2dc in next;  repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 4 48dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 5 60dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 6-10 60dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 1dc in each stitch around, ss to top of first dc
Row 11 60sc	Ch 1, sc in same, 1sc in each stitch around, ss to top of first sc
Row 12 20sc 40 curls	Ch 1, sc in same, ch 31, sc in bottom loops only beginning in second ch from hook; sc in beginning sc; *sc in next stitch, ch 31, sc in bottom loops only beginning in second ch from hook; repeat from * 18 times for a total of 20 curls Sc in next 20 stitches *Sc in next stitch, ch 31, sc in bottom loops only beginning in second ch from hook; repeat from * around, ss to first sc for a total of 20 curls The first image shows placement of hook through the beginning sc.  Insert the hook from the left side, between the front and back of the sc.  The second image shows that the completed “curl” looks like before you sc in the next stitch.

Plain as a Mud Fence

By: Amanda Melton

11-09-11

This is your most basic of hats.  It is a simple dome, worked in back loops only until the last row.  This pattern is easy to dress up with earflaps, ruffles, or appliqués.  You will see this hat make an appearance as the base of other hats I design.

Stitches & Abbreviations Used

-          Chain (ch)

-          Single Crochet (sc)

-          Double Crochet (dc)

Hook, Yarn, & Gauge

-          I/9 – 5.5mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver

-          4dc over 2 rows is approximately 1” square

Instructions

Begin	Ch 4, join with ss to first ch to form ring
Row 1 12dc	Ch 3, 11dc in ring
Row 2 24dc	Ch 3, dc in same, 2dc in each stitch around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 3 36dc	Ch 3, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next, 2dc in next;  repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 4 48dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 5 60dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 6 72dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 4, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 7 72dc	Ch 2, dc in same and each stitch around, ss to top of first dc *This will close the slight gap you get from doing ch 3, dc in first st; however, it also causes the back “seam” to migrate toward the right ½ stitch per row
Row 8-12 72dc	Repeat Row 7
Row 13 72sc	Ch 1, sc in back loop of same and back loop of each dc around
Row 14 72sc	Ch 1, sc in both top loops same and each sc around

Note About Patterns

All of my patterns are free.  To keep them that way:

• Please do not take credit for designing these items. 
• Feel free to make as many items from my patterns as you wish for yourself or to give away, but I ask that you not sell items made from these patterns. 
• If you post pictures of your completed items online, please give credit where due by linking either to this blog or my Ravelry page.

Thank you for your interest in my patterns, and happy hooking!

A few thoughts before bed

78 downloads today on Ravelry, 26 people favorited me, and 1 person has me in their queue!  Not bad for my first day, I think.

• Butterfly Neck Wrap - 16 dl, 5 fave
• Pas de Deux hat - 48 dl, 14 fave
• Simply Skinny Butterfly Scarf - 14 dl, 7 fave

I am currently working on Emelyn's Bumpy Butterfly Scarf.  Yes, it seems I am a bit obsessed with butterflies.  In reality I just think they are pretty, I was experimenting with different techniques and scarf patterns to make a match for the hat, and my daughter loves them.  It is my first time using bobble and popcorn stitches, so it is going a little slow right now.  I'm about 1/3 of the way done, and it is starting to take shape.  I'm excited to see what she thinks of it!

Two men who work with my husband have put in orders for red/white/blue skater skullies.  Do they even carry red/white/blue multi, or am I going to have to change yarn colors twice?  My sister-in-law wants a butterfly hat and skinny scarf combo in black with ruffles.  I believe I will try a two-tone ruffle in black and white.

Simply Skinny Butterfly Scarf

Pattern By: Amanda Melton

10/22/11

This pattern was created to match a hat pattern from Vallieskids Blog.  It is sized for a child (3-5 years, approximately 3’ long), but it can be easily adjusted in length.  The rule of thumb I used was 1” of length per inch of height of the child.  The height does not matter because the number if rows is constant.  You can embellish the ends of the scarf with tassels, ruffles, poms, or leave it plain.  I neither recommend making a scarf shorter than this pattern, nor do I recommend making a scarf for a child under age 3 due to strangulation hazards.  This, however, is up to you as a parent.

Description

This is a skinny scarf with a butterfly motif at each end.  It is a simple and quick project that corresponds to the hat pattern Olivia’s Butterfly.  It looks great in solids or multis.

Stitches & Abbreviations Used

-          Chain (ch)

-          Single Crochet (sc)

-          Double Crochet (dc)

-          Triple Crochet (tc)*

Hook, Yarn, & Gauge

-          I/9 – 5.5mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver

-          14dc over 1 row is approximately 4” wide. 

*tc will only be used if embellishing with ruffled ends

Instructions

Foundation – ch 128

Row 1 – dc in bottom loop of 3^rd ch from hook and each ch across (126dc)

Row 2 – ch 2, dc in first 10dc; ch 10, skip 9dc, dc in 10^th dc; dc in next 87dc; ch 10, skip 9dc, dc in 10^th; dc in next 9 (20ch, 108dc, 18 skipped dc)

Row 3-5 – Repeat Row 2 (20ch, 108dc, 18 skipped dc)

Row 6 – ch 1, sc in first 10dc; ch 5, sc around 5^th skipped dc of Row 1, ch 5, sc in next dc; sc in next 9dc (110sc, 20ch, 16 skipped dc)

Row 7 – ch 2, dc in first 10sc; dc in back loop only of ch – do not dc in sc of butterfly; dc in next 87sc; dc in back loop only of ch – do not dc in sc of butterfly; dc in final 10sc

Finishing & Embellishments

-          Weave in ends using yarn needle

-          Ruffle – DO NOT CUT YARN AFTER LAST ROW!

o       Ch 3, 12tc in the end of each row between the first and second dc of the row

o       SC row only – 6tc

o       Last row only – 12tc, ch 3, slip stitch to first dc

o       Cut yarn and weave in ends

o       For other end, slip stitch yarn to last dc in row, ch 3 and begin 12tc

o       If you want contrasting colored ruffles, cut yarn, weave in ends, and slip stitch to join a new color.  You can do this to make the tc ruffle a contrasting color, or you can trim the ruffle in contrasting color by slip stitching color to top of ch3, and then ch 1 for single crochet trim, ch 2 for double, or ch 3 for triple. Then sc/dc/tc in each tc from ruffle.

-          Tassels – Cut 72 pieces of yarn 12” long. Place 6 pieces together, fold double, insert loop from back of scarf between first and second dc of each row (not in sc row), insert ends of yarn through loop and pull tight. Rotate scarf (DO NOT TURN OVER) with front facing up and repeat for other end.

-          Poms – create up to 12 poms and attach with 3” pieces of yarn to each dc row

Size Adjustments

If you adjust the size, simply place a marker at the 10^th and 20^th stitch from each end to aid in placement of the butterfly motif.

3’ = 126dc

3.5’ = 147dc

4’ = 168dc

4.5’ = 189dc

5’ = 210dc

5.5’ = 231dc

6’ = 252dc