Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Purple People Eater

Purple People Eater

By: Amanda Melton

11-24-11


This hat was based on the general design of Valerie Whitten’s Pretty in Pink hat available on her blog Vallieskids.  There is an alternating pattern of horizontal ribbing, plus the addition of earflaps and braided ties.  This was a gift for my cousin’s daughter, and unfortunately I only got one picture of it before I sent it to her.

Stitches and Abbreviations Used
Chain (ch)
Stitch (st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Slip Stitch (ss)
Back Loop (BL)
Front Loop (FL)
Decrease (dec)
Earflap (EF)

Hook, Yarn, & Fit
-          H/8 – 5.00mm or I/9 – 5.50mm
-          Red Heart Super Saver in Amethyst
-          When I made the hat for my 15 month old, I used an H hook, which takes up some of the slack you get using an I hook for a larger hat (approximately 3T).  However, this does not hold true for every yarn.  Despite the fact that I always use RHSS medium worsted weight yarns, some of them are thicker/softer or thinner/coarser.  The thick or soft yarns make a floppy hat with an I hook and there is very little difference in width between an H and I hook.  The thinner or coarser yarns make a tighter hat and an H hook and there is quite a bit of difference in width.

Instructions

Hat
Begin & Row 1
30dc
Ch 32, dc in BL of 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, turn and dc in FL of each st across (including beginning dc); ss to top of beginning dc
Row 2 & 3
Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 4
Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 5 & 6
Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 7
Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 8 & 9
Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 10
Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 11
Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Earflaps
Notes:
-          Some of the EF will be worked in BOTTOM LOOPS.  You will find the bottom loop on the inside of the hat.  Placing your st in the bottom loop will make a knit or braided look on the front of the hat.  This will allow you later to crochet over top of the EF in Row 12 & 13.
-          To position EF, flatten hat with front facing up.  Mark the center st on each side of the hat in Row 11.  Count to the 7th st before and the 6th st after the st marker on your left; count to the 6th st before and the 7th st after fthe st marker on your right.  You should have 14 st marked on each side of the hat.
-          After Row 11, MOVING TO THE RIGHT, ss in BOTTOM LOOPS to where EF #1 will be (approximately next to last st of Row 11), dc in BOTTOM LOOPS so Row 12 can be worked over top of them in back loops
Begin & Left Side EF
14/14/14
11
7/7
3
1

-          R1: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 13 st;
-          R2: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc
-          R3: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc
-          R4: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2 dc, dc in next 4, dec in next 2, dc in next 4, dec in last 2
-          R5: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in last 2
-          R6: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd st from hook and next 6 dc
-          R7: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 3, dc, dec in last 3
-          R8: Ch 2, turn, dec in all

Ch 1, ss down side of EF, sc in BOTTOM LOOPS to Right Side EF
Right Side EF
14/14/14
11
7/7
3
1

-          R1: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 13 st
-          R2: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc
-          R3: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc
-          R4: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2 dc, dc in next 4, dec in next 2, dc in next 4, dec in last 2
-          R5: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in last 2
-          R6: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd st from hook and next 6 dc
-          R7: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 3, dc, dec in last 3
-          R8: Ch 2, turn, dec in all

Ch 1, ss down side of EF, sc in BOTTOM LOOPS around to Left Side EF, ss in base of first EF dc
Hat
Row 12
Ch 1, sc in BL of same and BL of each dc of Row 11, ss to top of beginning sc
Row 13
Ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, sc through existing sc between EF (do not sc through existing sc if you want the option of turning EF to the inside of the hat); ss to top of beginning sc
Row 14
Ch 1, sc in same st; sc 2x in each row of EF, 1x in each end dc of EF, sc in BL of Row 13 between EF; repeat for other side (do not sc around EF if you want the option of turning EF to the inside of the hat); ss to top of beginning sc; fasten off
Row 15
ONLY COMPLETE THIS ROW IF YOU DID NOT SC THROUGH EXISTING SC ROW IN ROW 13 AND DID NOT SC AROUND EF IN ROW 14.

Ch 1, sc in BL of same st and BL of each st around; ss to top of beginning sc
Braids
-          Cut 6 strands of yarn 36” long
-          Holding 3 strands of yarn together, fold in half to form a loop
-          Insert loop from back to front of R8 of EF
-          Insert ends of yarn through loop and pull to tighten
-          Divide each group of yarn into thirds (2 strands of yarn in each third)
-          Braid tightly to the ends, leaving a 1 ½” tail
-          Wrap a rubber hair band several times around the tail at the base of the braid to keep it from unraveling


Other Uses
-          Interestingly enough, if you turn the hat upside down, you have a purse-like item.  To turn it into a purse, sc a strap that is 84x4 (approximately 24”x1”) and attach it at each end to the 6th or 7th row of each EF. 
-          You may also choose to line the purse by making a simple folded “bag” slightly smaller than your finished hat dimensions.  To do this:
o       Measure your hat’s height and width. 
o       Cut a piece of fabric (broadcloth, fleece, calico, muslin) that is twice the height plus 2 1/4” and the same width.
o       Turn the fabric so the right sides are together (the side with the design or writing on the selvedge edges) and pin down the 2 sides.  DO NOT PIN THE OPENING OPPOSITE THE FOLDED EDGE!
o       Using a basic stitch, sew 5/8” from the pinned edges being sure to secure the thread by sewing backward a few stitches at each end.
o       To create a flat bottom, hold the “bag” with the seams you just sewed together.  Lay one seam on a flat surface with the other seam on top of it.  Mark 1” up the side seam.  Press the bottom of the seam down into a V.  Stitch perpendicular across the seam at the 1” mark.  Repeat for the other side. (see illustrations below)
o       Press the tip of the V upward and tack it to the seam 1” above the perpendicular stitch.
o       Turn down the top opening 5/8” and stitch around.
o       DO NOT TURN THE “BAG” RIGHTSIDE OUT!
o       Insert your lining into the purse, press the bottom flat, and hand sew the top of the lining to the top of the purse.