Purple People Eater

By: Amanda Melton

11-24-11

This hat was based on the general design of Valerie Whitten’s Pretty in Pink hat available on her blog Vallieskids.  There is an alternating pattern of horizontal ribbing, plus the addition of earflaps and braided ties.  This was a gift for my cousin’s daughter, and unfortunately I only got one picture of it before I sent it to her.

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

Chain (ch)

Stitch (st)

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Slip Stitch (ss)

Back Loop (BL)

Front Loop (FL)

Decrease (dec)

Earflap (EF)

Hook, Yarn, & Fit

-          H/8 – 5.00mm or I/9 – 5.50mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver in Amethyst

-          When I made the hat for my 15 month old, I used an H hook, which takes up some of the slack you get using an I hook for a larger hat (approximately 3T).  However, this does not hold true for every yarn.  Despite the fact that I always use RHSS medium worsted weight yarns, some of them are thicker/softer or thinner/coarser.  The thick or soft yarns make a floppy hat with an I hook and there is very little difference in width between an H and I hook.  The thinner or coarser yarns make a tighter hat and an H hook and there is quite a bit of difference in width.

Instructions

Hat
Begin & Row 1 30dc	Ch 32, dc in BL of 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, turn and dc in FL of each st across (including beginning dc); ss to top of beginning dc
Row 2 & 3	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 4	Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 5 & 6	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 7	Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 8 & 9	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 10	Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 11	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Earflaps
Notes: -          Some of the EF will be worked in BOTTOM LOOPS.  You will find the bottom loop on the inside of the hat.  Placing your st in the bottom loop will make a knit or braided look on the front of the hat.  This will allow you later to crochet over top of the EF in Row 12 & 13. -          To position EF, flatten hat with front facing up.  Mark the center st on each side of the hat in Row 11.  Count to the 7th st before and the 6th st after the st marker on your left; count to the 6th st before and the 7th st after fthe st marker on your right.  You should have 14 st marked on each side of the hat. -          After Row 11, MOVING TO THE RIGHT, ss in BOTTOM LOOPS to where EF #1 will be (approximately next to last st of Row 11), dc in BOTTOM LOOPS so Row 12 can be worked over top of them in back loops
Begin & Left Side EF 14/14/14 11 7/7 3 1	-          R1: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 13 st; -          R2: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R3: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R4: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2 dc, dc in next 4, dec in next 2, dc in next 4, dec in last 2 -          R5: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in last 2 -          R6: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd st from hook and next 6 dc -          R7: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 3, dc, dec in last 3 -          R8: Ch 2, turn, dec in all Ch 1, ss down side of EF, sc in BOTTOM LOOPS to Right Side EF
Right Side EF 14/14/14 11 7/7 3 1	-          R1: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 13 st -          R2: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R3: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R4: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2 dc, dc in next 4, dec in next 2, dc in next 4, dec in last 2 -          R5: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in last 2 -          R6: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd st from hook and next 6 dc -          R7: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 3, dc, dec in last 3 -          R8: Ch 2, turn, dec in all Ch 1, ss down side of EF, sc in BOTTOM LOOPS around to Left Side EF, ss in base of first EF dc
Hat
Row 12	Ch 1, sc in BL of same and BL of each dc of Row 11, ss to top of beginning sc
Row 13	Ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, sc through existing sc between EF (do not sc through existing sc if you want the option of turning EF to the inside of the hat); ss to top of beginning sc
Row 14	Ch 1, sc in same st; sc 2x in each row of EF, 1x in each end dc of EF, sc in BL of Row 13 between EF; repeat for other side (do not sc around EF if you want the option of turning EF to the inside of the hat); ss to top of beginning sc; fasten off
Row 15	ONLY COMPLETE THIS ROW IF YOU DID NOT SC THROUGH EXISTING SC ROW IN ROW 13 AND DID NOT SC AROUND EF IN ROW 14. Ch 1, sc in BL of same st and BL of each st around; ss to top of beginning sc
Braids
-          Cut 6 strands of yarn 36” long -          Holding 3 strands of yarn together, fold in half to form a loop -          Insert loop from back to front of R8 of EF -          Insert ends of yarn through loop and pull to tighten -          Divide each group of yarn into thirds (2 strands of yarn in each third) -          Braid tightly to the ends, leaving a 1 ½” tail -          Wrap a rubber hair band several times around the tail at the base of the braid to keep it from unraveling

Other Uses

-          Interestingly enough, if you turn the hat upside down, you have a purse-like item.  To turn it into a purse, sc a strap that is 84x4 (approximately 24”x1”) and attach it at each end to the 6th or 7th row of each EF.  -          You may also choose to line the purse by making a simple folded “bag” slightly smaller than your finished hat dimensions.  To do this: o       Measure your hat’s height and width.  o       Cut a piece of fabric (broadcloth, fleece, calico, muslin) that is twice the height plus 2 1/4” and the same width. o       Turn the fabric so the right sides are together (the side with the design or writing on the selvedge edges) and pin down the 2 sides.  DO NOT PIN THE OPENING OPPOSITE THE FOLDED EDGE! o       Using a basic stitch, sew 5/8” from the pinned edges being sure to secure the thread by sewing backward a few stitches at each end. o       To create a flat bottom, hold the “bag” with the seams you just sewed together.  Lay one seam on a flat surface with the other seam on top of it.  Mark 1” up the side seam.  Press the bottom of the seam down into a V.  Stitch perpendicular across the seam at the 1” mark.  Repeat for the other side. (see illustrations below) o       Press the tip of the V upward and tack it to the seam 1” above the perpendicular stitch. o       Turn down the top opening 5/8” and stitch around. o       DO NOT TURN THE “BAG” RIGHTSIDE OUT! o       Insert your lining into the purse, press the bottom flat, and hand sew the top of the lining to the top of the purse.

Kentucky Agate

Written By: Amanda Melton

11/09/11 – 11/17/11

This pattern idea (and a few others) came to me as I was reading children’s books to my daughter one day.  I had seen a beautiful two-toned, ruffled, layered cowl and already wanted to recreate it.  Since I like to have matching hats and scarves, I started thinking of how to ruffle a hat and what colors I might make it.  Agate is the state rock of Kentucky, and painted by a local artist on the side of a building for our county’s bicentennial celebration is a large Agate geode.  These geodes are unassuming on the outside, appearing like an average spherical rock.  On the inside, however, there are dazzling colors of banded minerals in various color combinations.  The combination I have chosen for this particular hat is yellow and red.  If you need inspiration for your own hat, you can search for images of Kentucky Agate, Agate Geode, or visit the following website: http://www.uky.edu/KGS/rocksmn/kentuckyagate.htm

My Inspiration

Yarn Red Heart Super Saver -          Café (body of hat) -          Claret (ruffle) -          Gold (trim)

Hooks -          I/9 – 5.50mm (body of hat) -          K/10 ½ - 6.50mm (ruffle/trim)

Stitches

-          Chain (ch)

-          Slip stitch (ss)

-          Single crochet (sc)

-          Double crochet (dc)

-          Treble crochet (tc)

-          Front Post (fp)

-          Front Post Treble/Double/Half Double Crochet (fptc, fpdc, fphdc)

Instructions

*All rows after the beginning chain and Row 1 of the Body of Hat will be worked in BACK LOOP ONLY.  This will create a circular rib around the hat on each row.  This is where you will eventually create the ruffles!  Row 14 is through both top loops.

Body of Hat Café I/9 – 5.50mm
Begin	Ch 4, join with ss to first ch to form ring
Row 1 12dc	Ch 3, 11dc in ring
Row 2 24dc	Ch 3, dc in same, 2dc in each stitch around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 3 36dc	Ch 3, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next, 2dc in next;  repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 4 48dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 5 60dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 6 72dc	Ch 3, 1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 4, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 7 72dc	Ch 2, dc in same and each stitch around, ss to top of first dc *This will close the slight gap you get from doing ch 3, dc in first st; however, it also causes the back “seam” to migrate toward the right ½ stitch per row
Row 8-12 72dc	Repeat Row 7
Row 13 72sc	Ch 1, sc in back loop of same and back loop of each dc around
Row 14 72sc	Ch 1, sc in both top loops same and each sc around
Ruffles Claret K/10 ½ –  6.5mm
Begin	From inside hat: Insert I hook in top of 1st dc of Row 1, pull loop of Claret yarn through, ss, push loop through to front of hat *All Claret yarn should be on outside of hat
Ruffles	Insert K hook in loop of Claret *Ruffles will only be worked on odd rows.
Row 1	Ch 3, 6tc in next 2 loops, 6dc in next loop, 6hdc in next loop, 6dc in next loop You should now have 2 loops between your last 6dc and your first 6tc.  We are going to transition to Row 3 now in a spiral. YO twice, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 2, YO and complete first tc.  Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fptc Repeat 6fptc around last dc in Row 3
Row 3	6dc in first loop, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 3.  Transition to Row 5 in a spiral. YO twice, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 4, YO and complete first tc.  Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fptc. Repeat 6fptc around last dc in Row 5
Row 5	6dc in first loop, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 5.  Transition to Row 7 in a spiral. YO, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 6, YO and complete first dc.  Keep dc as close to bottom of Row 6 dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fpdc. YO twice, insert hook behind last dc in Row 7, YO and complete first tc.  Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fptc.
Row 7	6tc in first loop, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 7.  Transition to Row 9 in a spiral. YO twice, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 8, YO and complete first tc. Keep tc as close to bottom of dc as possible. Repeat 5x for 6fptc. YO, insert hook behind last dc in Row 9, YO and complete first dc.  Keep dc as close to bottom of Row 9 dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fpdc.
Row 9	6hdc on first loop, 6dc in next;  *6tc in next, 6tc in next, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 2 loops between the last dc and the first dc of Row 9.  Transition to Row 11 in a spiral. YO, insert hook behind next to last dc in Row 10, YO and complete first hdc.  Keep hdc as close to bottom of dc as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fphdc. YO, insert hook behind last dc in Row 11, YO and complete first dc.  Keep dc as close to bottom of Row 11 as possible.  Repeat 5x for 6fpdc.
Row 11	6tc in first loop, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; *6tc in next 2, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, 6dc in next; repeat from * until there are 3 loops between the last dc and first dc of Row 11.  6tc in next, 6dc in next, 6hdc in next, ss to beginning dc of Row 11.
Trim Gold K/10 ½ –  6.5mm
	Ss Gold to top of last hdc in Row 11, ch 1, sc in same and each following stitch around to the fp stitches of Row 11.  Sc in each front post stitch of Row 11 & Row 9, sc in last tc of Row 7, sc in each stitch of Row 7 (working in same direction as Row 11) around to fp stitches.  Sc in each fp stitch of Row 7 & Row 5, turn hat, sc in first dc of Row 3, sc in each stitch of Row 3 (working in opposite direction as Row 11 & 7) around to fp stitches.  Sc in each fp stitch of Row 3 & Row 1.  Ss to Row 1 of base hat.
NOTE	It takes between 35 minutes and 1 hour to complete one round of ruffles on the larger rows (7, 9, 11).  Do not expect to make this hat in one sitting (you may develop a twitchy eye as a result; I speak from experience!), it is a little overwhelming doing so many ruffles. If you do not want to take the time to do the ruffles, you may simply complete the pattern of 12tc, 6dc, 6hdc, 6dc (or 6tc, 3dc, 3hdc, 3dc; or 2tc, dc, hdc, dc) in a spiral around the hat in ODD rows only.  The Claret will still have a wave appearance due to the varying heights of the stitches, but it will take considerably less time (and yarn!) to complete than doing the wavy Ruffle. A third ruffle option would be to ruffle every 3rd row starting with Row 2 (2, 5, 8, 11).  In this case you would front post stitch spiral in the second to last stitches of Rows 3, 6, 9; next to last stitches of 4, 7, 10; last stitch of 5, 8, 11; and begin your next set of stitches in the first front loop of Rows 5, 8, & 11.

Little Emmy Curlylocks

By: Amanda Melton

11-14-11

This hat is a tribute to the corkscrew curls that are my daughter’s hair.  I thought it would be cute to have a hat that mimicked what God gave her.  This hat is also going to be the base for another hat I am working on.  The curls are created from a long chain that has been single crocheted along the bottom loops – the yarn curls naturally as a result.

Stitches & Abbreviations Used

-          Chain (ch)

-          Single Crochet (sc)

-          Double Crochet (dc)

Hook, Yarn, & Gauge

-          I/9 – 5.5mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver

-     6dc over 4 rows is approximately 2” square

Instructions

Begin	Ch 4, join with ss to first ch to form ring
Row 1 12dc	Ch 3, 11dc in ring
Row 2 24dc	Ch 2, 2dc in same, 2dc in each stitch around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 3 36dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next, 2dc in next;  repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 4 48dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 5 60dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 1dc in next 2, 2dc in next dc; *1dc in next 3, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ss to top of ch 3
Row 6-10 60dc	Ch 2, dc in same, 1dc in each stitch around, ss to top of first dc
Row 11 60sc	Ch 1, sc in same, 1sc in each stitch around, ss to top of first sc
Row 12 20sc 40 curls	Ch 1, sc in same, ch 31, sc in bottom loops only beginning in second ch from hook; sc in beginning sc; *sc in next stitch, ch 31, sc in bottom loops only beginning in second ch from hook; repeat from * 18 times for a total of 20 curls Sc in next 20 stitches *Sc in next stitch, ch 31, sc in bottom loops only beginning in second ch from hook; repeat from * around, ss to first sc for a total of 20 curls The first image shows placement of hook through the beginning sc.  Insert the hook from the left side, between the front and back of the sc.  The second image shows that the completed “curl” looks like before you sc in the next stitch.