Made In America Slouch

By: Amanda Melton

12-13-11

This hat was not intended to be a slouch hat.  My husband had a coworker who had great difficulty finding a hat to fit his head at 24” circumference.  We measured twice and unfortunately I crocheted twice, because the first hat began to appear rippled or gathered.  After having worked on that for two nights, I decided to go back to my basic crown and just enlarge that by two increase rows to get the desired 96 stitches around.  I didn’t want the hat to look like a bag, so I decreased at the band area.  There is a lot of color change throughout the hat, but I wrote the pattern for the easiest method I found.  In addition, the pattern is color coded by row, and there are special instructions for the last row.

Stitches & Abbreviations Used

Chain (ch)

Slip Stitch (ss)

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Together (tog)

Decrease (dec)

Hook, Yarn & Fit

-          K/10 ½ - 6.50mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver Solids

o       Blue

o       Hot Red

o       White

o      

-          This hat is fairly large.  Even taking it in to 84 sts at the band, it slipped down over my eyes, as you will see in the pictures.  You can also decrease to 72 sts in the band if you prefer a more snugly fitting band.  Not only is the hat large circumferencewise, it is also a long hat (it completely covers my face), which is why I consider it a slouch.  I would not recommend this hat as written for children, unless you decreased to 60 sts in the band.

Instructions

Notes	-          Holding all three colors together, tie an adjustable/slip knot. -          At each ** ss 3 strands tog to top of beginning ch (3, 2, or 1), ch with selected color for the following row -          Be sure to keep the yarn you are working to the far left (for right hand crochet) to avoid getting them tangled
Begin 12dc	Ch 4, ss to first ch; ch 3, 11 dc inside ring; **
Row 1 24dc	Ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each around, **
Row 2 36dc	Ch 3, 2dc in next, *dc, 2dc in next; repeat from *; **
Row 3 48dc	Ch 3, dc in next, 2dc in next, *dc, dc, 2dc; repeat from *; **
Row 4 60dc	Ch 3, dc in next 2, 2dc in next, *dc, dc, dc, 2dc; repeat from *; **
Row 5 72dc	Ch 3, dc in next 3, 2dc in next, *dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc; repeat from *, **
Row 6 84dc	Ch 3, dc in next 4, 2dc in next, *dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc; repeat from *; **
Row 7 96dc	Ch 3, dc in next 5, 2dc in next, *dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc; repeat from *; **
Row 8 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 9 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 10 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 11 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 12 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 13 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 14 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 15 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 16 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 17 96dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 18 84dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in next 5, dec in next 2, *dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dec in next 2; repeat from *; **
Row 19 84dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 20 84dc	Ch 2, dc in same, dc in each st; **
Row 21 84/72sc	Ch 1, sc in same, sc in each st; ** -OR- Ch 1, sc in same, sc in next 4, dec in next 2, *sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, dec in next 2; repeat from *; **
Row 22 84/72sc	Ch 1, sc in same, sc in each st; ** Clip red yarn leaving a 4” tail
Row 23 84/72sc	Work first part of row over red tail Ch 1, sc in same, sc in each st; ** Clip white yarn leaving a 4” tail
Row 24 84/72sc	Work first part of row over white tail Ch 1, sc in same, hold hat as if you were going to continue working in the same direction as first 23 rows, but sc in first st to right and each st around MOVING TO THE RIGHT; ** Working sts in opposite direction produces a rope look that lends a more finished look to the final row.

Wearing glasses comes in handy for keeping the hat in place!

The band can be turned up for a different look/fit

Trying to show the overall coloration, but it also illustrates the length of the hat

Rope effect created by crocheting in stitches moving RIGHT rather than left

Inside of hat where colors are carried

Do Your Ears Get Cold?

Do You Ears Get Cold?

By: Amanda Melton

12-02-11

This hat was based on the general design of Valerie Whitten’s Pretty in Pink hat available on her blog Vallieskids, and my own Purple People Eater hat available from my blog An Adventurous Life At Home.  I was commissioned to create two earflap hats for my 15 month old niece, and I did not like the design of Purple People Eater for such a young child.  Instead, I rethought my approach to creating the earflaps.  These earflaps are slightly cupped.

Stitches and Abbreviations Used -          Chain (ch) -          Stitch (st) -          Single Crochet (sc) -          Double Crochet (dc) -          Slip Stitch (ss) -          Back Loop (bl) -          Front Loop (fl) -          Earflap (EF)

Hook & Yarn -          H/8 – 5.00mm -          Red Heart Super Saver

Instructions

Hat
Begin & Row 1 30dc	Ch 32, dc in bl (this row only) of 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, turn and dc in fl (this row only) of each st across (including beginning dc); ss to top of beginning dc
Row 2-11 30dc	Ch 2, dc in same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 12-13 30sc	Ch 1, sc in same and each st around; ss to top of beginning sc
Earflaps
Notes: -          Please look at the accompanying pictures that show pulling up a loop, hook placement, and stitching over the loop.  This will be very important for correct tension and fit of the finished hat! -          Although I have given the number of skipped stitches between EF as well as the beginning placement, you may need to determine this for each individual hat.  To do so: o       Lay hat with “seam” down (you should be looking at the side of the hat opposite your hook) and flatten into a squarish shape o       Mark the st farthest left and right in R13 (I usually tie a scrap of contrasting yarn around the post) – this will be the center of each EF o       Count to the 6th st before and after your center st marker on each EF – mark these 4 sts as well o       Count from the first marked st to the third marked st of each EF to be sure you only have 13 sts total for each EF before proceeding with EF construction Loops pulled up between earflaps
Begin & Right Side 13/13/13/ 13/13/13 10/10 7 4 2	Pull up a loop.  Insert hook in 2nd from last st of R13, ss -          R1:  Ch 1, sc in same & each of the next 12 st -          R2-6:  Ch 1 (turn), sc in 13 sts -          R7: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in st 5/6, dec in last 2 st -          R8: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 10 sts -          R9: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in st 5/6, dec in last 2 -          R10: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in st 4/5, dec in last 2 -          R11: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in next 2 -          Loosely ss in ends of EF rows to base of EF opposite where first row started Pull up a loop.  Skip 19 sts.  Insert hook in 20th st, ss.
Left Side 13/13/13/ 13/13/13 10/10 7 4 2	-          R1:  Ch 1, sc in same & each of the next 12 st -          R2-6:  Ch 1 (turn), sc in 13 sts -          R7: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in st 5/6, dec in last 2 st -          R8: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 10 sts -          R9: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in st 5/6, dec in last 2 -          R10: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in st 4/5, dec in last 2 -          R11: Ch 1 (turn), sc in 2nd sc from hook, dec in next 2 -          Loosely ss in ends of EF rows to base of EF opposite where first row started

Hat
Row 14	After ss to base of left side EF: Ch 1, sc in same & each st around WORKING OVER THE PULLED UP LOOPS BETWEEN EF! Ss to top of beginning sc
Row 15	Ch 1, sc in same and each st around. Ss to top of beginning sc
Pom Poms
I use Clover’s Large Pom Pom maker.  For each “arm” of the device, I wrap my yarn 75 times, 150 times total.  When snipped, each pom will have 300 end tassels.  There are instructions available online if you do not have a pom maker.  The first pom I ever made was wrapped around a 3 ½” diskette from my computer.  It is my favorite one!  You can also use 2 plastic food lids with a center hole and a slit for passing the yarn through.  The possibilities for making poms are virtually endless! Stitching over loops between earflaps



Purple People Eater

By: Amanda Melton

11-24-11

This hat was based on the general design of Valerie Whitten’s Pretty in Pink hat available on her blog Vallieskids.  There is an alternating pattern of horizontal ribbing, plus the addition of earflaps and braided ties.  This was a gift for my cousin’s daughter, and unfortunately I only got one picture of it before I sent it to her.

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

Chain (ch)

Stitch (st)

Single Crochet (sc)

Double Crochet (dc)

Slip Stitch (ss)

Back Loop (BL)

Front Loop (FL)

Decrease (dec)

Earflap (EF)

Hook, Yarn, & Fit

-          H/8 – 5.00mm or I/9 – 5.50mm

-          Red Heart Super Saver in Amethyst

-          When I made the hat for my 15 month old, I used an H hook, which takes up some of the slack you get using an I hook for a larger hat (approximately 3T).  However, this does not hold true for every yarn.  Despite the fact that I always use RHSS medium worsted weight yarns, some of them are thicker/softer or thinner/coarser.  The thick or soft yarns make a floppy hat with an I hook and there is very little difference in width between an H and I hook.  The thinner or coarser yarns make a tighter hat and an H hook and there is quite a bit of difference in width.

Instructions

Hat
Begin & Row 1 30dc	Ch 32, dc in BL of 3rd ch from hook and each ch across, turn and dc in FL of each st across (including beginning dc); ss to top of beginning dc
Row 2 & 3	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 4	Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 5 & 6	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 7	Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 8 & 9	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 10	Ch 2, dc in each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Row 11	Ch 2, dc in BL of same and each st around; ss to top of beginning dc
Earflaps
Notes: -          Some of the EF will be worked in BOTTOM LOOPS.  You will find the bottom loop on the inside of the hat.  Placing your st in the bottom loop will make a knit or braided look on the front of the hat.  This will allow you later to crochet over top of the EF in Row 12 & 13. -          To position EF, flatten hat with front facing up.  Mark the center st on each side of the hat in Row 11.  Count to the 7th st before and the 6th st after the st marker on your left; count to the 6th st before and the 7th st after fthe st marker on your right.  You should have 14 st marked on each side of the hat. -          After Row 11, MOVING TO THE RIGHT, ss in BOTTOM LOOPS to where EF #1 will be (approximately next to last st of Row 11), dc in BOTTOM LOOPS so Row 12 can be worked over top of them in back loops
Begin & Left Side EF 14/14/14 11 7/7 3 1	-          R1: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 13 st; -          R2: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R3: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R4: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2 dc, dc in next 4, dec in next 2, dc in next 4, dec in last 2 -          R5: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in last 2 -          R6: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd st from hook and next 6 dc -          R7: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 3, dc, dec in last 3 -          R8: Ch 2, turn, dec in all Ch 1, ss down side of EF, sc in BOTTOM LOOPS to Right Side EF
Right Side EF 14/14/14 11 7/7 3 1	-          R1: Ch 2, dc in same st and next 13 st -          R2: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R3: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 13 dc -          R4: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2 dc, dc in next 4, dec in next 2, dc in next 4, dec in last 2 -          R5: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in next 2, dc, dec in last 2 -          R6: Ch 2, turn, dc in 3rd st from hook and next 6 dc -          R7: Ch 2, turn, dec in first 3, dc, dec in last 3 -          R8: Ch 2, turn, dec in all Ch 1, ss down side of EF, sc in BOTTOM LOOPS around to Left Side EF, ss in base of first EF dc
Hat
Row 12	Ch 1, sc in BL of same and BL of each dc of Row 11, ss to top of beginning sc
Row 13	Ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, sc through existing sc between EF (do not sc through existing sc if you want the option of turning EF to the inside of the hat); ss to top of beginning sc
Row 14	Ch 1, sc in same st; sc 2x in each row of EF, 1x in each end dc of EF, sc in BL of Row 13 between EF; repeat for other side (do not sc around EF if you want the option of turning EF to the inside of the hat); ss to top of beginning sc; fasten off
Row 15	ONLY COMPLETE THIS ROW IF YOU DID NOT SC THROUGH EXISTING SC ROW IN ROW 13 AND DID NOT SC AROUND EF IN ROW 14. Ch 1, sc in BL of same st and BL of each st around; ss to top of beginning sc
Braids
-          Cut 6 strands of yarn 36” long -          Holding 3 strands of yarn together, fold in half to form a loop -          Insert loop from back to front of R8 of EF -          Insert ends of yarn through loop and pull to tighten -          Divide each group of yarn into thirds (2 strands of yarn in each third) -          Braid tightly to the ends, leaving a 1 ½” tail -          Wrap a rubber hair band several times around the tail at the base of the braid to keep it from unraveling

Other Uses

-          Interestingly enough, if you turn the hat upside down, you have a purse-like item.  To turn it into a purse, sc a strap that is 84x4 (approximately 24”x1”) and attach it at each end to the 6th or 7th row of each EF.  -          You may also choose to line the purse by making a simple folded “bag” slightly smaller than your finished hat dimensions.  To do this: o       Measure your hat’s height and width.  o       Cut a piece of fabric (broadcloth, fleece, calico, muslin) that is twice the height plus 2 1/4” and the same width. o       Turn the fabric so the right sides are together (the side with the design or writing on the selvedge edges) and pin down the 2 sides.  DO NOT PIN THE OPENING OPPOSITE THE FOLDED EDGE! o       Using a basic stitch, sew 5/8” from the pinned edges being sure to secure the thread by sewing backward a few stitches at each end. o       To create a flat bottom, hold the “bag” with the seams you just sewed together.  Lay one seam on a flat surface with the other seam on top of it.  Mark 1” up the side seam.  Press the bottom of the seam down into a V.  Stitch perpendicular across the seam at the 1” mark.  Repeat for the other side. (see illustrations below) o       Press the tip of the V upward and tack it to the seam 1” above the perpendicular stitch. o       Turn down the top opening 5/8” and stitch around. o       DO NOT TURN THE “BAG” RIGHTSIDE OUT! o       Insert your lining into the purse, press the bottom flat, and hand sew the top of the lining to the top of the purse.